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December 2013.
Borongan City, Eastern Samar. |
Surfers invent words you know.
Because no words in the english dictionary can explain
how marvelous a swell is,
what sunsets do to you,
and the feeling when you ride a swell.
and the feeling when you ride a swell.
I tried it myself and boy did I like it?
It's like falling in love, only better.
I even got bruises from it.
But it really didn't matter at all.
I still loved doing it.
